A Bologna Local Guide: From Belt-Cut Pasta to Craft Cocktails | Holidays in Bologna

Kevin Raub is an American travel journalist based in Bologna. He is the co-author of 100+ Lonely Planet guidebooks

food

Bologna is the capital of Italy’s most important food region, Emilia-Romagna. This is a land of stories where the kitchen has given birth to many famous dishes all over the world. Lasagna, Ragu, TortelliniMortadella, Parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar all come from here.

At Pasta Fresca Naldi, a small shop/cafe. west of the historic center Shepherds line up to receive a special menu from owner Valeria and her team. no (Grandma). Offers that change daily (from around €7) such as tagliatelle with ragù or prosciutto and lemon tortellini. to the mess (baked with pork and cream); and weed with sausage There are only six stools inside. Most people opt for the takeout package.

For a dining experience, Trattoria Bertozzi has long been a staple of Bologna’s great traditional restaurants. It’s almost a mile from the city center, far enough to keep the original flavor. with local delicacies such as graham crackers with marinated pork, courgettes, saffron and grated Parmesan.

hand made tortellini which is a special menu of Grandma in Bologna Photo: Maria Moratti/Getty Images

inspiration

for five decades Until his death in 2012, Lucio Dalla was Italy’s most highly regarded singer-songwriter. In 2019, his charming home inside the 15th-century Palazzo Casa Fontana poi Gamberini was opened. Open to the public, Casa di Lucio Dalla (€15 per person) is a bizarre journey through the mind of a musical genius, complete with pulsating potpourri of bric-a-brac, personal inventions and priceless works of art.

neighborhood

Bolognina (“Little Bologna”) is located behind the main train station and is the center of working class life. It includes a (free) museum about the mysterious 1980 Ustica plane crash and the massive 19th-century Sacred Heart Church with its domed roof. but has a long-lasting personality It is a growing and culturally diverse neighborhood of markets. ethnic restaurant and countless accents Gentrification Didn’t quite dig its heels in here, but streets like Via Luigi Serra (home of great value and the wonderful Trattoria di Via Serra; hip bar/café Fermento; The artisanal bakery (Forno Brisa and organic Stefino gelateria) gives Bolognina a sense of direction of travel and rewards those who dare to leave the center.

The city's former municipal greenhouse has been converted into cool places like Vetro for drinking and vegetarian meals.
The city’s former municipal greenhouse has been converted into cool places like Vetro for drinking and vegetarian meals. Image: PR

green area

No other Bologna park fulfills green space ambitions like Giardini Margherita, a 26-hectare site opened in 1879 and inspired by an English landscape garden. The former municipal greenhouse of the city has been converted into one of Bologna’s coolest places. This is home to Vetro (for drinks and vegetarian food) and Le Serre (with exhibitions, co-working spaces and cultural events), whether it’s a happy hour or an hour or two of working outdoors. It’s easy to relax in the afternoon here.

nightlife

Via del Pratello is Bologna’s famous nightlife street, but for more personality with your cocktail. Had a date with Davo, Don, Jack and Ricky at Ruggine at Vicolo Alemagna, four friends from different angles. In northern Italy opened this cocktail bar in a small alley. Glowing orange 450 meters from Piazza Maggiore, you won’t find Campari, Aperol or any fancy condiments here. But there is a mix of local craftsmanship.

Want to delve into the atmosphere of Italy’s finest craft beer? Head a short distance west to Il Punto, where there is a wide selection of ales. (including one hand pump) with a focus on local craft beerSour and wild ales aficionados should try a booze at Ca’ del Brado, a top-notch craft brewery a few miles south of the city center.

live

Maria Ketty, an art historian, is located near the Old Town. It operates the charming Bologna nel Cuore, a bed and breakfast with two double rooms and two one-bedroom apartments. Bright interiors, high ceilings, colorful tiled bathrooms. and a large breakfast pairs from 125 euros bolognanelcuore.it

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