In Milan, a new classic.

Milan — It’s a sign that Nino Cerruti, the inventor of softly tailored ceremonies for both men and women (Coco Chanel is a fan), and a gentleman whose personal style is poetry unknown to nonsense, died briefly about men’s fashion in milan Closed week on Monday Cerruti’s subtle wit and playfulness, his artistic approach to dress. And his tailoring approach is meant for everyday life that resonates with the changing panorama of contemporary menswear. Mr. Nino It was a classic on his own terms.

While everyone is freed from the concept of the plague and laziness to dress a work-from-home guy, the term classic It seemed to return to importance immediately. and with that garment and every as it relates to proper dressing Dressing is an exhaustive ceremony. This requires awareness of what we want to say through clothing selection. and the desire to go out and perform It’s definitely a slightly different classic style. not hardened and definitely not suitable for the pose Rather look young and bright. Because we all have streetwear, sportswear and other fantasies. The youth has already been enough for the children.

There are many things in Milan. From 44 Label Group’s black club culture, a new line by Claudio Antonioli’s DJ Max Kobosil and Dreamers Factory, to MSGM’s energetic lightness, it all feels out of sync with the prevailing fashion trends.

The classics are expanding more and more ideas now. There are, of course, a wide range of expressions, from proud men to fragile women, from adults to purposeful children.

Both brands embrace this classic feel. and tailoring and dressing the same And to score it was Fendi and Prada. Silvia Venturini Fendi and duo Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons approached this story from the other end of the spectrum. Even with the same intent to drive sartorial issues in the future. By removing the obvious need and rigorous management.

Venturini looks back at the roaring 20th century to imagine that the twenty-first century was a playground for the evolving promiscuity. The girls from Fendi installed Ledger’s digital wallet to store their cryptocurrency. Encrypts and NFTs Grandfather’s wardrobe fishing for double-breasted blazers. Tail coats and camel coats Grandma’s drawer for stringing pearl beads and knee-length lace socks. And there are still memories of kindergarten, Mary Janes. But nothing looks the same. A blazer looks like a blazer. Skirt-like pants and open-shoulder coats As for watches and shoes, Venturini calls her creations. “Future relics” and it looks really amazing. There is a vibrancy of Alessandro Michele’s masculinity, but Venturini’s originality is a lack of nostalgia and a quick summary of her message.

Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons acquired the “Body of Work” collection and focused on the attire as a uniform connected to roles and work: all types of work, as long as the clothing provided important to the person They drew a picture of an alpha-utopia-dystopian man breaking into a catwalk from a neon tube. And let him be interpreted by a cast of models and actors of all ages, Kyle MacLachlan and Jeff Goldblum open and close, respectively, clad in nomenklatura robes, their steps made heavier with square boots. A combination of tropes and a boiler suit under a tailored jacket. and sciura tufty mohair detailing on coats and coats — a classic Prada that looks past Raf Simons’ angular prism.

In terms of power and formality, Prada put on a memorable show in 2012 this season. But sometimes a little forced and too close to what Demna did at Balenciaga (despite Prada’s unmistakable self-possession). This was the only weakness. Until now, Prada’s raison d’etre has always been at odds with grain. Now it’s in line with the mainstream.

A new classic transforms Zegna, where Alessandro Sartori once again proves the power of quiet fashion. The designer’s forte is not an ostentatious declaration. But it is an effective technique for making clothes. By keeping the cut lightweight, loose and layered, Sartori created a new, modern suit: one with a matching windbreaker under the robe. which provides new functionality while eliminating stiffness

Also on the classic progressive track are Walter Chiapponi, who lives the Italian life at Tod’s, proving its subtlety, and Norbert Stumpfl, who demonstrates the refinement and balance that is remarkable in the His outing for Brioni turned the home’s bold masculinity into something contemporary. and the younger brother is the soul

Etro is fresh and focused: monochrome silhouettes, prints, loose prints. and geometric shapes Replaces the bohemian made for a rather bland recipe renewal. The Etro’s trademark sharpness is there, but it’s firmly fixed. So much in Loewe’s style, and the end result is vibrant and youthful.

A deliberate coincidence is the atmosphere at DSquared2 in a trekking gear, ropes, outerwear. And a backpack that recreates the cheerful look of Ryanair. You know when handbags have to be lightweight and you end up piling on all of them. Matthew Williams’ favorite type of youth at Alyx is more intimidating and urban. There is a protective jacket. big shoes and strange touches such as glitter and feathers. The formula works, although it feels a little compelled.

Elsewhere, Milan Fashion Week took a sensational turn, largely thanks to a group of newcomers and well-known designers who first appeared in the city. Ardusse, the brainchild of Gaetano Colucci. keep an eye on It presents a clever blend of romance, decency and glamour. Another young designer who works with romance is Federico Cina, who uses dirty balera culture to feel fresh and poignant. Luchino Magliano is relatively young but powerful in expression. has turned the Magliano label into a hotbed of twisted masculinity: the stereotypes of men that have changed this and that. And age really doesn’t matter.

A blend of fragility, aggression and enchantment brings a broken British glamor to the Jordanluca collection. part is morning glory But at JW Anderson, where the fun finally erupted. even in video format It is a feast of stupidity and ambiguity. Metallic glitter and ASMR sound for the party like never before and the party that will be.

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