Florence – A new fashion year has begun a little. but with optimism
The Pitti Uomo men’s fair, which traditionally kicked off a new season in Florence, has undergone a rapid reorganization. guest of honor Ann Demeulemeester Canceled last week’s scheduled event Brunello Cucinelli, the frequent main event attendee at the event. withdrew at the last minute in Milan, where the men’s fashion week starts on Friday. The show calendar looked remarkably empty. Paris also had a runway show. digital presentation and appointments in the showroom next week
For Chinese and Japanese Traveling is still difficult. On the other hand, Russian visitors and exhibitors are limited by the Sputnik vaccine. which has not yet been accepted in Europe
But in Florence there is also good news.
The atmosphere was good at the event and in the ballroom of the 15th-century Palazzo Pitti, where a rare event was held on Wednesday evenings: the presentation of the ballroom in the style of the Palazzo Pitti. Ru Paul’s Drag Raceby Finnish designer Ervin Latimer who wore red underwear and a blonde wig launched his brand Lattimmier
Another Finnish designer, Rolf Ekroth, said: “It’s been a pleasure to see and talk to people one-on-one again.
Unlike Cucinelli, a few established Italian brands, from Herno to Caruso to Kitan, still adhere to menswear appointments.
In the end, 548 companies leased 28 percent of the exhibition space from outside Italy. “We’ve lost 60 more exhibitors in the last four weeks,” said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO and organizer Pitti Immagine, in his office at Fortezza Basso, a former fort where the fair was held. He states that these are often small brands. “When such a small team is suddenly quarantined, There is still little room for maneuvers,” he said, with 37 brands limiting their participation in digital presence on the Pitti Connect online platform.
There were more exhibitors than the previous generation and more visitors. There are remarkably large numbers of Dutch buyers. more than a hundred According to Napoleon The response from European countries like France, Germany and Belgium has been good. despite everything But there are also a small number of buyers from Asia and Russia. “And we got 17 American stores, about 30 buyers,” Napoleon said.
Compared to past ‘normal’ models, which had an average of about 1200 exhibitors, things were still difficult. This work took less than a day in this cycle.
“We haven’t thought for a moment about this cancellation,” the CEO said. “Italian law allows trade shows with a ‘super green pass,’ so there’s no reason for Pitti not to continue. When we cancel the June 2020 and January 2021 editions, we also comply with the law. We lost 39 million euros back then. Pitti Immagine was founded in 1950 to develop Italian and international fashion. that’s our role And we have to take on that role as soon as possible.” Napoleon pointed to safety measures. This includes free testing and the FFP2 mask, which is mandatory in Italy from the moment you step outside. “We have ordered twenty thousand of them,” he said.
He continued: “This is a stronger season than before. The winter edition is actually stronger than the summer. More exhibitors And the turnover and export of Italian fashion has increased. The only markets where the numbers dropped are England, Japan and Hong Kong. Should you leave Pitti in this situation? No, we do what we have to do in difficult situations. We only make the right decision. I like to compare our situation to riding in a car during a blizzard. you stand on the side of the road Stop the engine and wait for it to pass. Or you can put on snow tires and go for it.”
Sustainability has certainly collapsed.
A well-known international exhibitor is Itoh from New Delhi, specializing in exclusive handlooms. “We’ve been here for four years,” says creative director Amit Babbar. “We bring new Indian beauty. which is not ethnically related but is relevant to the present Although we use our traditions, fabrics and techniques Our clients are architects and artists. Winter clothing is not our strength as an Indian brand. For our first participation in Pitti Uomo, we are introducing a collection called ‘trans-seasonal’, which includes hand-woven wool Next season we will definitely be back.”
The response was excellent, Babbar said. “There were quite a few people. Although most of them are local people. There are few Japanese or Americans. And I think for Italian buyers We are just a small group of specialized products.”
Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth is launching his collection for next winter digitally through Pitti’s platform. Especially techno racing and motorcycle racing. “My cousin loves motorcycles. Not so much myself,” Ekroth said at his booth. “I try to imagine what my childhood in Finland would be like. Nostalgia for the memories I don’t have.”
He added: “The first day was very quiet. But today went well. happy people We meet again, talk ‘live’, do good things both physically and mentally. I think it’s important to see fashion. touch the clothes talk about it Video alone is not enough.”
But this season, Ekroth opted for video presentations over actual performances. “I found acting quite difficult. Meeting people working in exhibition halls like this lots of space So you can keep some distance. At the show, everyone sits too close to each other. Video is also cheaper. which for independent designers like me I got the same result.”
The standout element this season is the final breakthrough in sustainable fashion. It has large independent pavilions for brands such as Ecoalf and Save The Duck, both big with ‘B Corporation’ certification.
The Italian Save The Duck celebrates its 10th anniversary with the event’s most exciting collaboration: British designer Edward Crutchley has designed capsules for the brand’s Protech range. Additionally, Ecoalf from Spain has launched a new premium line, Ecoalf. 1.0
“I love Ecoalf’s slogan: no planet Bsaid Sonja Noël, owner and buyer of a well-known designer boutique in Brussels. style For her first fair visit since 2019, she traveled by train in principle. Noel ran sustainable boutique Halelujah between 2010 and 2015 and still believes in slow fashion. “I really saw the evolution in that area. both among my brands and among my customers. There are fewer pre-collections. Fashion week events are filled differently. and customers buy less but pay less attention to the price They haven’t asked for a discount since December.”
“At Pitti this week, I also saw a real emphasis on sustainability,” Noel said. Whether it’s waste, animal-free, recycling, some brands do it all, and that’s fine, you can’t resist that. But as I walked around Pitti, I saw some products attached to me. I forgot them in no time. for big brands But for smaller designers who are often unable to present their real collections. Nice to meet Christopher raburn again He’s a pioneer and has a beautiful story. I’ve also seen a few Italian brands that specialize in one type of product, specifically pants, knitwear or shoes.”
Herno continues to invest in the younger Globe Line with a focus on recycled materials, and Marc O’Polo is actively involved in the change. Of course, all the products on the stand are sustainable. In fact, the Swedish-German brand aims to be completely sustainable by 2023 and weather-free by 2025. Marc O’Polo is also working with Italian fur company Manteco. sheep too ‘Recycling after consumption’
at another event, partly devoted to the sustainable label of youth. S/Style Sustainable styleThe most interesting collection is Philip Huang, a designer from New York and Bangkok. The creator of indigo-dyed workwear in the northeast of Thailand. “Our cotton is hand-spun, hand-dyed and hand-woven. We make thirty meters a month.” Huang also introduced hand-dyed leather. Recycled denim, Ikat indigo and new moss green. made with indigo and mango
Filson, an American outdoor gear brand. They are known for their durable woodcuts, backpacks and other bags. It has signed a distribution and licensing agreement with WP Lavori in Corso, which groups such labels as Woolrich, Baracuta, Barbour, Nanamica, engineered garments and beams in its portfolio. (Sometimes for the Italian market then go international) At Pitti, the focus is on a huge collection of clothing. There are down jackets, jeans and flannel and moleskin shirts. on the wall of the pavilion Hang a decades-old piece from the company archives.
Underwear giant Sloggi has been working together for the first time. With the team behind leading German magazine 032C, Liu Jo launches a men’s collection at Pitti and Russian Red September by designer Olga Vasyukova, presented in Florence for the first time.
Brunello’s absence Cucinelli was spotted by record labels such as Caruso with creative director Aldo Maria Camillo and Kiton, the latter coming to Pitti for the first time with KNT (for Kiton New Textures), which It is an urban apparel brand by twins Mariano and Walter De Matteis, the third generation of the Kiton family.
Despite everything, the product is booming.
In the end, Pitti Immagine Uomo 101 welcomed a total of 548 menswear collections, 30% of which came from overseas. Simultaneously, the sister show Pitti Bimbo 94 presents 170 collections on the last day of the event. Pitti reports that it has around 4,900 Italian and international buyers, which the company said. It concluded that approximately 8,000 total visitors, including guests, agents, representatives and suppliers.
The figure is similar to the figure for the centenary show in June 2021, which has also reduced the level of celebrations due to the uncertainty surrounding COVID-19. However, despite everything, organizers Pitti still have. hope for the future of work
in the closing statement Napoleon expressed his gratitude to exhibitors, buyers and the media for their support and “Huge energy and passion,” he added, “Finally, my deepest thanks to everyone at Pitti for their work and hard work. Our associates of all types, fitters, city services, restaurants, hotels, Florence, we all deserve this Pitti.”
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL Translated and Edited by: Rachel Douglass